Photographing the Streets of Fes: A Journey Through Light, Color, and Culture

The Medina seen in the early morning as the call the prayer announces the start of the day

There’s a particular moment in Fes when the medina exhales—when the last threads of morning chill pull back and the day’s rhythm begins to sharpen. The mullah’s calls have dwindled and the sounds of the streets filter above the ancient stone walls. It’s in these quiet, golden moments that the city reveals itself to the patient photographer. Fes is a labyrinth of centuries-old craftsmanship, intricate geometric design, and spirited street life, and wandering its lanes with a camera in hand feels like stepping through a living tapestry.

The bustle and movement is captured here in a dark passage lit only by a bright fluorescent light.

After a typical breakfast consisting of msemen (a folded fried bread) with a range of spreads and boiled eggs, we met our knowledgeable guide and headed from our Riad through the winding alleys of the upper Medina to the exquisitely tiled  Bab Boujloud - the Blue Gate. As with many of the attractions of this ancient city, there were already several tourists milling about the gate. Not that the gate is ever quiet, as there is a constant pulsating hum of pedestrians moving through it’s arch and into the shadowed alley beyond. 

A spice seller, Rafiq, trading his wares alongside the wall to the old city.

From the gate, the veins of the medina lead you into tanneries, artisan workshops, and spice-filled markets. First though, we strolled along edge of the Medina Wall, where the strong of spices, fresh meat and coffee drifted over the bobbing heads of hundreds of people s they moved slowly past the wares. From there we seemed to descend through tight corridors, past innumerable stout doors, studded in brass, and though winding alleys with the patina of centuries in the brickwork and mortar.

Fes dances with colour, but those tones are at their richest during early morning and late afternoon. It was for this reason that we had braved the cold early morning air to capture the city at dawn before the bustle. Now as we wended our way through the labyrinthine pathways of the Medina, we could almost imagine ourselves as seen from the panoramic view we had had earlier. Moving through the city, living in it even, it’s entirely possible to imagine never really seeing the sky as your view of it is constantly governed by the tall walls of the alleys and tightly knit buildings. 

A tannery worked walking between the vats of lime and colour that the leather process requires

So it’s with surprise that you pop out over the quintessential attraction of this old city, the Chouara Tannery. Situated deep in the bowl of the city, the tannery has long been made famous by countless visitors and their photographs. Despite having seen the these views from the likes of National Geographic and even Conde Naste, the scene is absorbing as you first step to the edge of a veranda to look down on the tubs and the bright colours. Workers move rapidly back and forth throwing skins into the lime to bleach, thence on to different basins for colour and fixing. Over all of this is an overpowering smell, typical of any tannery, but an affront to the sensibilities of some tourists. Punters in the pedestrian street hand out sprigs of mint to ward away the smell. It doesn’t take long though before you have grown accustomed to the ripe odour. 

From the tannery to a carpet trader, to the Al-Attarine Madrasa, an Islamic school built in the 14th Century by the Marinid sultan Uthman II Abu Said. The intricate plasterwork and mosaics adorn every inch of the old building. Cedarwood rafters hold up the incredible heavy tiled roof. It’s from the this rooftop that we finally look out and see more than a letterbox of sky above. It’s a moment of quiet before stepping out into the flow of humanity pulsing through the veins of the Medina once more, now to start on the walk back up to the top of the Medina. 

The intricate detail of the ceilings of the cloisters attached to the Al-Attarine Madrasa

There’s more of course to Fes, than the medina. Our multiple days in the city meant for visiting the mosaic school, the Jewish quarter and cemetary, the old forts. The Medina with it’s storied past and layers of history is hte photographic drawcard though. The medina can feel like a maze, especially when you’re focused on your next shot. Although their is the sense of pace, we actually move quite move slowly and respectfully through the throngs. 


Some simple rules help immensely when navigating through the the lanes with a camera in hand: greet shopkeepers, ask before photographing people, and step aside when the inevitable donkey carrying goods barrels past. This is a country where the tourist gaze is endured, sometimes jovially, other times not so much. Approaching with humility and respect goes a long way to crossing cultures. 

Paints and brushes in use by an artisan at a mosaic school on the outskirts of the old city.

Keep your gear simple—one camera, one versatile lens. This not only lightens your load but frees you to immerse yourself in the swirling movement around you. And remember, some of the best frames come from observing the flow of life rather than chasing it.

Fes isn’t just a place to photograph—it’s a place to feel. Its layers of history, artisanship, and humanity invite you to look deeper, linger longer, and appreciate the small, unscripted moments. Whether you're a seasoned photographer or just beginning, the streets of Fes offer endless stories waiting to be captured.
Pack your camera, embrace the maze, and let the city unfold before your lens.